Double Vision: Passion, Fashion, and The September Issue
“September is the January in fashion.” Candy Pratts Price, Executive Fashion Director, Vogue Magazine.
R. J. Cutler’s 2009 documentary, The September Issue, a look at the arduous process of compiling Vogue magazine’s biggest edition of the year, was initially promoted as a profile of its Editor In Chief, Anna Wintour (left), but ended up shedding more light on Creative Director, Grace Coddington, resulting in her becoming the film’s most fascinating star.
Coddington’s free-spirited, yet focused passion versus Wintour’s structured, and equally focused, determination made for a compelling dichotomy. Even their hairstyles and overall fashion sense speak volumes: Wintour dons her signature bob, classic and conservative, a strand rarely out of place, while Coddington (below) rocks thick, flowing, rock-star-style red hair. Ironically, Wintour, often stern, tends to exude personality through attire that embraces prints and color, while Coddington, like the cool bohemian aunt in your family, is frequently draped in black, almost choosing to pull focus from what’s on her person to what’s on her pages.
Coddington fights to get her work into the magazine, but it repeatedly gets put to the side, as Wintour edits, then ultimately decides what fashion spreads will make it into the issue. As Coddington senses her spreads are on the chopping block, she can’t hide the defeat on her face, as she sits at her desk. She updates the documentary crew about her spreads’ seemingly limited lifespan: “They took two more out and there’s question marks on two more, so it’s been whittled down… and I’m furious,” she calmly discloses. After a somber pause, she reveals with a brief nervous chuckle: “And it’s very hard to go on to the next thing.”
Later, a trip to Paris reignites the inner fire that looked to be extinguished. In a film full of flash and fashion, and pretty pictures, it’s this section that shows the inner beauty, particularly as Coddington overlooks the gardens at Versailles, an inspiring perspective emerges: “You have to go charging ahead, you can’t stay behind.”
And isn’t that what fashion, and life, is all about. The September Issue is a glimpse into the glamour, but more so it’s in-depth insight into the relentless passion it takes to create, and the frustration that can happen along the (run)way.
The September Issue cinematographer: Robert Richman.
Stitch Mix: Music, Mood and the Chanel Fashion Show
Like a belt or purse matching the shoes, fashion and music can be coordinated perfectly. Whether it was during Karl Lagerfeld’s iconic run as creative director, or now with Virgine Viard at the lead, the Chanel fashion house knows all about, all of the above.
In December 2019, Chanel posted its Métiers d’art (art professions) show, a yearly event highlighting the artistry of the many ateliers with whom the house works. (Think, in part, meticulous beadwork applied by master embroiderers.) Held at the Grand Palais in Paris, this year’s show—the first for Viard since Lagerfeld’s passing—was entitled “31 Rue Cambon,” the address of Chanel’s Paris store. The set was co-designed by the film director, Sofia Coppola and was inspired by Coco Chanel’s apartment, with its curved staircase surrounded by angled mirrors; large chandeliers descend from the rafters to illuminate the already brilliant homage.
Stylin’; Profilin’
“Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman.”
— Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (1883 - 1971)
As the old adage goes: Perfection is in the details, and this rings true regarding Viard’s use of a ‘70s/‘80s-inspired soundtrack. When the model, Vittoria Ceritti opens the show, she glides elegantly down the staircase to Roxy Music’s “To Turn You On” from Avalon, with Bryan Ferry’s ethereal vocals further setting the tranquil tone.
Other songs include:
Sam Taylor Wood produced by the Pet Shop Boys on “I’m In Love with a German Film Star”;
Soft Cell’s jazzy, peppy, yet ironically moody, “Torch”;
The French singer, Amanda Lear’s Euro-Disco, “Follow Me.”
If you need to edit your time, watch the Roxy Music section, then skip to 10:30, featuring LCD Soundsystem’s “Oh Baby,” with its dark, yet dreamy, synth-pop sound. Thanks to the music choices and the models (including Kaia Gerber near the end) walking and weaving around each other in perfect harmony, these two sections are meditative, hypnotic, couture with a calming effect, certainly something to embrace in these times. Note that Ceritti closes the show as well, creating a satisfying sense of completion.
Watch as fashion and music fit beautifully like hand to glove:
Blunt Answers
The latest to reveal responses to Vogue’s insightful “73 Questions,” the delightfully charming, and seriously funny, Emily Blunt returns to the halls of a fashion publication. The actress, whose breakout performance as the snotty, and stressed-out, fashion-magazine assistant, Emily in The Devil Wears Prada, makes a series of references to the film as she walks through the magazine’s New York office:
Emily stating her Starbucks is “a bit cold.” Editor-in-Chief, Miranda (the aforementioned Devil) had a preference for “Starbucks…hot Starbucks.”
“… They’re both so different.” In the film, another assistant holds up two seemingly identical belts for Miranda, and states that they’re both so different, to which Andrea, the fish-out-of water protagonist, scoffs in disbelief.
Seated young woman in the background: Takes on the Andrea role from the belt scene.
Stanley Tucci played Miranda’s right-hand man in the film.
Cerulean: The blue hue that Miranda references in the belt scene.
“That’s all.” Miranda’s frequent, infamously dismissive conclusion to her list of demands, is stated here by Anna Wintour, on whom Miranda is allegedly based.
“Bore someone else with your questions.” Another of Miranda’s dismissive statements in response to one of Andrea’s reasonable inquiries.
By segment’s end, wishing for number 74 from the Mary Poppins actress whose refined voice is as smooth as satin.
Fashion Forest: Chanel Fall/Winter 2018/19
Earlier this year, Karl Lagerfeld and the team at Chanel didn’t just present fashion, but illusion. With the fall season less than two week away, check out the brand’s F/W show, where the Grand Palais in Paris was transformed from ordinary catwalk into a walk in the woods. This cinematic set decoration (complete with a fab prefab-inspired structure) immerses the viewer into a crisp autumn wonderland, while a soundtrack featuring the ‘60s-underground-rock sound of The Liminanas (“Dimanche”; “Istanbul is Sleepy”) and the ‘80s-pop mood of A.R. Kane’s “Love from Outer Space,” all work together to create a fashion-forward future that is romantically retro.
Pop Playlist: Madonna: “Vogue”
Arguably, Madonna’s 1990 hit, “Vogue” is her signature song, one that will always come up in conversation when discussing the icon’s contribution to pop (music) culture. With its theme of dance floor as place to escape life’s “heartache,” Madonna and co-writer Shep Pettibone paint a scene where fantasy, through imaginative (fashion-pose) voguing, serves as inspirational recharge for one’s own reality, a space that gives “new life.”
The documentarian, Jennie Livingston had already been exploring similar themes in the New York gay underground of competitive fashion-fantasy balls and voguing “battles” years earlier, with her groundbreaking film, Paris Is Burning. Yet Madonna was the one to bring elements from this world into mainstream visibility (“Life’s a ball”). While the powerful documentary delves into far grittier territory, “Vogue” focuses on the glitzier aspects of old-Hollywood glamour. It becomes more than just a catchy dance song or stylish video, it’s indicative of how a savvy Madonna took something subculture and crafted it into one of her most mainstream successes, in turn, also influencing the pop-culture lexicon, the word not just a noun anymore or the name of a magazine, but now a familiar action verb.
David Fincher’s masterpiece:
A clip from Paris Is Burning, with the legendary Willi Ninja. Take note at 1:15 - 1:25, which features a young Jose Gutierez, who a few years later would appear in the video for “Vogue” and be a part of Madonna’s “Blond Ambition World Tour.”
Fallen So Hard for Kelly Clarkson’s “Love So Soft”
It was love at first listen, upon hearing Kelly Clarkson’s “Love So Soft” from her upcoming, Meaning of Life. With Clarkson, it’s about that voice: soulful; controlled, yet able to open up vocally without resorting to four minutes of shouting as singing; always reliable; simply remarkable. Some are singers, but Clarkson belongs in the category of impressive vocalist.
It’s reflected in “Love So Soft,” a ’60s R & B-inspired track that blends a (bass) sax with an already bass-tastic beat in the chorus. Clarkson delivers raspy, attitude-filled vocals, transitioning into different melody lines from verse to refrain to chorus to bridge, seemingly four songs in one that connect beautifully. The video weaves in ‘60s elements, in the form of cars, fashion (headscarf and sunglasses) and midcentury-modern architecture (the “cliff house” with rose-blossom exterior; clean-line decor; copper chandelier). "Love So Soft” is so good.
Madonna Singin’ in the Ring & “Causing a Commotion”
Check out this “fight to the finish.” Filmed in Yokohama, Japan on Madonna’s “Blond Ambition Tour” (1990), the pop star and her two backing vocalists, Donna De Lory and Niki Haris, duke it out during “Causing a Commotion.” It’s the third song in the set list and one of the best in the show, for it captures some of the elements that make this such an iconic tour:
Style with sociological substance: Jean-Paul Gaultier’s versatile designs have Madonna going from corset to athletic (hoodie) wear, specifically a colorful jacket that smartly stretches to accommodate the famous cone bra. And then the gloves go on. Gaultier and Madonna play with traditional gender roles and iconography: doll-like ponytail; a pants-suit with lingerie (as outerwear); exaggerated (bullet) bra; unhinged garters; her character almost an engineered construct of masculine prowess and Metropolis-inspired (robo) femininity, with Madonna stating, “Let’s show these people how ladies can act.”
“The moves, baby”: Choreographed punches and uppercuts, and by the end Madonna is full of “below the belt” bragging rights, after the intentionally tongue-in-cheek “grudge match” of cartoon (“Three Stooges”) proportion.
Band: The bass intro with percussion congas; Jonathan Moffett on drums (2:10 captures his impressive speed to keep the beat). With Madonna on the main card, it’s important to remember that there’s actually a solid live band (3:09).
This is just one of the many performances that confirms the Blond Ambition Tour is still a clear winner… T.K.O.
An Australian in Paris: “…That Sweet City Woman”
Kylie Minogue’s cover of the Bee Gee’s classic, “Night Fever” (from Saturday Night Fever) utilizes her upper upper-register, in order to capture Barry Gibb’s distinctive vocal style. In the live performances below, Kylie showcases her authentic, live-vocal capacity, even amid a backing track for (background-vocal) effect. When Kylie sings, “Makin’ it mine,” she’s makin’ it hers.
The staging, styling and choreography is nothing short of chic, paying homage to Parisian glam-pop-disco in the ‘70s, while the two female dancers sport voluminous hair and seductive moves of the period. Kylie joins the dance party at “I got fire in my mind/I get higher in my walking,” and can’t help near the end to do a funky four-step.
Still Life: Bill Cunningham 1929 - 2016
This weekend the photographer Bill Cunningham passed away from complications due to a stroke. The New York Times fashion photographer edited two columns—On the Street and Evening Hours. Cunningham was on the other side of the lens at one point in his life as the subject of an incredibly moving documentary entitled Bill Cunningham New York.
Bill was often on the corner of 57th and 5th, taking photographs of the many eclectic styles worn by New Yorkers. Donning his signature blue smock, plain pants and sensible shoes, Bill was a hawk of an observer, supremely focused on his strutting prey. He quickly snapped pictures of unique individuals sauntering through the concrete jungle. At the end of an expedition, he’d unlock his bicycle and ride back to The Times to edit the On the Street layout, which showcased style trends. Bill also worked nights as an event photographer covering all-things high society, which was compiled into the Evening Hours spread.
Charming and ironic, the film allowed the viewer to see a man living an incredibly simple life amid all the flash of New York. Here’s a man who sometimes wore a black poncho and instead of throwing it away when there was a rip in it, he’d repair it and say, “…a little tape and we’re back in business.”
Bill Cunningham New York is a touching reminder that a simple, honest life can be a content, rich life, filled with passion for career, some good friends, and respect from others. Bill’s smile was full from ear to ear and was seen a lot throughout the film, especially at his 80th birthday party. He also poignantly reminded us on his trip to Paris of the old adage: “He who seeks beauty will find it.” And he made that search his life, however with that, seemingly came certain sacrifices, as captured in a emotionally raw scene between the film’s director, off camera, and Cunningham, sitting in front of his many filing cabinets. The subjects of romance, religion, and regret briefly revealed a crack in the armor, and like that rip in the pancho, it’s Cunningham’s smile that metaphorically served as the tape that got him back in business, always moving—or in his case—biking forward.
Cunningham was 87.
Margot Robbie Has a “Serious” Beauty Routine
Check out this sleek short film showing the morning routine of the actress, Margot Robbie. Yet as Robbie, in “cold gaze” mode, begins her voiceover, describing her rigid regimen, the film begins to take satirical shape…
…becoming an homage to a famous scene from a film that once starred the actor, Christian Bale:
I’m Bat(e)man
“In the morning, if my face is a little puffy, I’ll put on an ice pack while doing my stomach crunches. I can do a thousand now.”
— Christian Bale is beauty and beast as Patrick Bateman in American Psycho, a graphic alle(gory) of status obsession gone savage amid the me-generation ‘80s.
Lionsgate Films. Cinematographer: Andrzej Sekula.
“What Kind of Fool” a.k.a. Life After “Better The Devil You Know”
The catchy 1992 song by Kylie Minogue could be theorized as having its origins in 1990. Think “Better The Devil You Know” (“BTDYK”), a song whose lyrics reluctantly embrace blind forgiveness of a (devilish) partner. Yet “What Kind of Fool (Heard All That Before)” could be seen as a sequel. In “BTDYK”: “I’ll forgive and forget/If you say you’ll never go.” In “Fool”: “You can say you’ll be true/I can trust in you/But I heard all that before.” Kylie is done forgiving, and ready to forget, the devil she knows.
The video for “Fool” features scenes inspired by the film, And God Created Woman, starring Brigitte Bardot, a woman to which Kylie has long paid homage, most notably the artwork for her 2003 CD, Body Language and the styling for the subsequent one-off concert at the London Apollo. The And God references include: the silhouette of Kylie lounging behind a sheet hanging on the line; Kylie dancing in a red skirt on a kitchen table. And for another film reference: the heart-shaped glasses, unmistakably from the poster for the 1962 Stanley Kubrick film, Lolita. Kylie as Lolita-type girl at the beginning of “Fool” is not the same person at the end; in the dark no longer, she’s a stronger woman slamming the kitchen door, committing to the lyric: “Don’t wanna see your face no more.”
Where the Wild Roses Glow: Kylie Minogue at Hyde Park Festival
As the headliner at the British Summer Time festival in London’s Hyde Park, pop royalty Kylie Minogue seemed to have a certain glow, as evidenced in the four-minute video below, which features compiled footage from the huge outdoor event, with a remix of “On a Night Like This” as the soundtrack. Donning a crown, accessorized by a base of red roses (maybe that was the reason for the luminous sparkle), she looked excited and energized. Perhaps the obvious joy was due to a revised, refreshed set list, instead of the one she recently used on her Kiss Me Once tour.
Back were the signature hits, as well as some ‘80s covers (Kim Carnes’ “Bette Davis Eyes,” complete with ‘80s photo-shoot-inspired video backdrop; Kool & the Gang’s “Celebration,” as she donned a Xanadu-tastic shiny gold jumpsuit to set the tone). She did keep one Kiss Me Once song, “Into the Blue,” which closes the show and finds Kylie sporting a black, beautifully tailored coat. If Kiss Me Once was winter, Kylie looked like she was ready for summer.
Blond Transition: Madonna: “Papa Don’t Preach”
In 1986, Madonna was about to risk everything. She didn’t record Still Like A Virgin or Still a Material Girl; gone were the rosary beads, the “Boy Toy” belt buckle, a tangled nest of brown hair in a bow, and the lacy, underwear-bearing wedding dress. Instead, True Blue became the more mature sound and, like a song on the album, the physical manifestation became “White Heat.” For Madonna, and as the decades would later confirm, she believed: If it ain’t broke, fix it anyway.
The first single, “Papa Don’t Preach,” marks this transition. The track starts with a brief overture, yet the popping bass chords, hard drum line, and percussion take over, reminding us that although she’s more serious, she’s not a fuddy-duddy. Madonna being the brilliant visual artist she was (and still is), it’s the accompanying music video that best illustrated this determined new direction. When the bass chords begin, the camera starts low as well, capturing a pair of black slip-ons, feet walking at a purposeful pace to the beat. And as the camera pulls up, it’s like a countdown to a liftoff: “Four”: fitted jeans (no lace); “Three”: the mid-drift (nothing bared, no provocative buckle); “Two”: a tucked-in, long-sleeve shirt, and a black leather jacket draped over the shoulder (no rosaries in sight); “One”: Madonna’s face, stern and pensive, sitting below shockingly cropped blond hair (no bows). “Blastoff!” She, the captain of her own career, off to embark on that mission “to rule the world.”
At the start of the first verse, Madonna—now shown with styled, white-hot blond hair, powdery skin, and red lipstick—turns to the camera and states her defense, not just to the patriarch in the lyrics, but almost symbolically to her followers, more specifically the “Madonna Wannabes,” that she’s no longer a (like a) virgin: “Papa, I know you’re going to be upset/’Cause I was always your little girl/But you should know by now/I’m not a baby.” By the chorus, another example of this newfound streamlined appearance: all-black, retro-inspired, pencil-thin leggings, and a bustier (a slight foreshadowing to the cone bra in four years).
Near the finale, she once again sings lyrics directly to the same side camera, pleading poignantly, yet confidently: “Don’t you stop loving me, Daddy/I know I’m/Keeping my baby.” If there’s one thing a Madonna fan knows, not unlike what a papa knows of his child: Just trust her; she knows what she’s doing and most of the time she’ll make the right decision.
Other video highlights: Madonna’s character in her famous, “Italians Do It Better” T-shirt does a double-take (rightly so) when she’s hit by the piercing blue-eyed stare from “the one you warned me all about,” played by the actor, Alex McArthur; Madonna’s longtime friend, the actress and passionate Tuscan cook, Debi Mazar stands next to her, rocking an orange off-the-shoulder and her signature, ‘50s-inspired ponytail.